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CHENNAI & THE SOUTH

For the visitor wishing to explore southern India extensively, Chennai, the capital of the state of Tamil Nadu is the most convenient point of entry. Chennai has an international airport, a seaport, a rail and road network that links it to all major towns and cities of the region. It also has several deluxe hotels and others to suit modest budgets.

Tamil Nadu is a bastion of Hinduism, whose past endures into the present. Temples with towering spires called gopurams are a common features of this state, eldom seen anywhere else in the country. Temples in Tamil Nadu were the fulcrum of society and even today art forms that have their origin in religious worship continue to colour daily life. Notable among these are splendid bronzes of deities, painting on glass and Bharatnatyam, an evocative dance form.

Mahabalipuram, Kancheepuram & Thanjavur are good examples of temple towns where, within the temple fortifications, grew a multi-layered society that preached faith and grew from social harmony. Kanchipuram, also called Kanjeevaram, is famous throughout the country as the center where lustrous silk sarees are woven. Likewise Thanjavur is an important center for bronze figure casting. Mahabalipuram, with its wealth of sculptures, is located by the seaside and has excellent resorts.

The towns of Tiruchirapally and Madurai also contain famous temples

Quite a contrast to the temple heritage is provided at Pondicherry, for long a French Colony. French is still widely spoken, and seaside vilas and cobbled streets are more reminiscent of the south of France than the south of India.

Yet another fact of this surprisingly diverse state are two hillstations – Ootacamund and Kodaikanal. Both are little patches of England, being much loved by the expatriate population of the Raj. Both places provide delightful relaxation during extended tour of the south, having a wide range of hotel accommodation.

The cuisine of Tamil Nadu, more or less totally vegetarian, has become enormously popular all over the country and few towns have at least one eatery serving popular snacks from the state’s extensive repertoire.

With foreign influences as disparate as Chinese and Portuguese, Arab and Dutch, Kerala is the spice cost of India. Edged by a thread of unbroken beachline, the state’s heart is composed of intensely green paddy fields and an unique network of rivers and lagoons. Upland Kerala, relatively little visited, is composed of hills thickly wooded with teak and rubber. It is here that Kerala’s most precious spices are grown in carefully nurtured plantations of cardamom, pepper and nutmeg.

Thiruvananthapuram, the state capital, with an international airport, has an exceptionally fine museum set in an amusement park. 16 kms away is Kovalam, one of the most popular beaches in the country. Many visitors stay at Kovalam, driving into Thiruvananthapuram, for sightseeing trips, rather than the other way around. Sri Padmanabhapuram Palace, a short drive away, is an important monument.

Cochin, with a fine natural harbour, has been Kerala’s center of maritime trade for innumberable centuries. Along the harbour, rows of antediluvian Chinese fishing nets indicate Kerala’s trade with China, just as buildings along the water’s edge testify to the erstwhile presence of Dutch and Portuguese colonizers. Jewtown, complete with an immaculately preserved synagogue, has a flavour all its own, while Tripnathura, at the other end of the city, has many traditional houses with central courtyards. Kerala’s multitude of faiths – Islam, Judaism and a host of sects of Christianity and Hinduism – all co-exist harmoniously in a state that is known for its Marxist inclinations !

Kerla’s traditions of dance forms, which originated from temple worship, can be witnessed at regularly held performance. Lecture demonstrations of the most spectacular of these – Kathakali, are held daily at many centres in cochin. Teyyam, once an act of worship and visual feast; temple festivals complete with caparisoned elephants; Kalaripayatu, the indigenous art of self defence; all are a part of Kerala’s remarkable heritage of performing arts and can be witnessed at various centres in Cochin and Thirvananthapuram

A five hour drive from Cochin leads to thickly forested hills, past rubber and spice plantations, and into southern India’s tea growing district headquartered at the charmingly old-world Munnar.

From Kottayam to Allepey, is a world of palm fringed waterways, a route which is covered by motor launch. Elderly sailboats, long barges transporting tons of coconuts and tiny skiffs used to transport children to school are common sights on these backwaters.

Just off the coast of Kerala are a widely scattered group of coral islands – 36 of them – collectively known as Lakshadweep. They form part of the Union of India and are once of the country’s newest tourist destinations.

Ten of the islands are inhabited by simple, peace loving folk whose language is close to that spoken in Kerala. The islanders have lifestyles and occupations that revolve around coconut cultivation, coir matting and fishing.

Tourism’s major focus is on water sports, as each of the island is surrounded by a coral reef providing large areas of crystal clear water for everything from snorkeling to wind surfing. The five islands which are open to tourists have simple accommodation in the shape of beach cottages. Permits to visit Lakshadweep can be obtained from the Lakshadweep tourist office in Cochin.

Regular flights operate from Cochin to Agatti as well as modestly priced ship cruises which stop at all the islands open to tourism. These cruises begin and end at Cochin. Bangaram Island is open to foreign tourists.

Lakshadweep offers the perfect holiday for those who want to get away from the artifices of the world and enjoy a few days in simple yet stunningly beautiful surroundings.

Karnataka, with its capital as Bangalore, is home to a fascinating legacy of richly carved temples, imposing mosques and trappings of royal past.

Bangalore, with its many hotels and fine restaurants, is a good base for exploring the state. At once a modern industrial city, a shopper’s paradise and a gracious legacy of the British, Bangalore is renowned as much for its industrial plants as for its silk saris, and for the sprawling Cubbon Park which lies at the heart of the city, as also its prestigious race course.

Mysore, the capital of the erstwhile princely state has a profusion of palaces and museums. Nearby Srirangapatnam, is linked to the memory of one of the old states best known ruler – Tipu Sultan, Somnathpur, a few miles away has a magnificently carved temple. Once can visit Bandipur Wildlife Sanctuary also.

Vishakapatnam, is one of the finest beach resorts on the eastern seaboard of India.

Belur and Halebid have between them a series of carved stone temples. For perfection of finish, wealth of detail and sheer artistry, they have unrivalled specimens of the art of temple sculpture. Hassan, with a comfortable hotel, makes the perfect base from which one can explore the riches of Belur and Halebid. Also a short distance away, Shravanbelagola is famous as the pinnacle of the sculptor’s art. A figure 120metres tall has been carved out of a single piece of granite in 183 A.D.

Andhra Pradesh’s capital city, Hyderabad has the atmosphere of an Arabian Nights fairy tale. Whimsical palaces, erstwhile stately homes and crowded bazaars filled with shops selling Hyderabadi pearls, incense and copper utensils characterize the city, while in the distance looms Golconda fort.

The city’s historical connection traces itself to the rulers or Nizams, whose wealth was legendary. Rooms full of jewel and currency notes, a garage full of gleaming Rolls Royce are all now part of history, but an unique culture lives on, coloring the city with its distinctive charm. The epicurean tastes of this most exalted royal house of princely India gave rise to a fabled cuisine based on painstaking preparations and slow cooking.

Much of Hyderabad’s old town can be covered on foot. The city’s important landmarks include the Charminar, a 16th century gateway; the Salar Jung Museum, which exhibits priceless treasures alongside trivia that made up the personal collection of the owner; Mecca Mosque and Golconda Fort.

Nagarjunakonda is the site of ongoing excavations, which have revealed Buddhist temples, stupas and monasteries.

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